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Trees - Planting and Care Tips




Transplant Shock in Trees

Horticulture researchers estimate that 75% of the roots may be lost when digging field-grown nursery stock. In the nursery, practices, such as root pruning, irrigation, fertilization, root-ball configuration, and digging techniques, influence the percentage of harvested roots. Water-stress is due to the removal of most of the water-absorbing roots, and this is the primary cause of transplant failure. Most water absorption capability within a transplanted root-ball results from very small diameter roots. These fragile roots are the first to suffer from excess water loss in newly transplanted landscape plants.

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Proper spacing for trees

Spacing is an important consideration when planting trees. Keep in mind that in years to come the tree will be larger and may lose branches in storms. For this reason, oaks and other strong-wooded shade trees should be planted at least 20 ft. away from buildings and utility lines. Place soft-wooded trees such as soft maple at an even greater distance. In relation to one another, large shade trees should be planted about 50 ft. from each other for best results. Medium-sized trees such as red maple or river birch should be spaced about 35 ft apart. Dogwood, redbud, hawthorn, crabapple or other small trees may be planted 15 to 20 ft. apart and at least 8 ft. from buildings.

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Watering newly planted trees

Trees are most vulnerable in their first years of life and should be tended with special care. Newly planted trees should be watered deeply and on a regular basis. Try placing a hose to drip at the base of a tree for several hours. This will allow water to soak and encourage deep rooting.
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Removing unwanted trees

When removing trees from a a property, I would recommend hiring a professional and reputable tree maintenance expert or arborist in your area that can remove your trees in a safe and organized manner. There is more to taking down a sizable tree than hacking away with a chainsaw. Consideration must be given to the structure of the tree, weight and size of limbs, proximity to adjacent structures and power lines, and most important, the safety of everyone involved in or around the operation. Trained personnel can remove a tree to several inches below ground level and not leave an unsightly stump. Some machines systematically reduce stumps to woodchips to a maximum depth of 12" (30 cm) below grade. Stump chips can be hauled away or left in place in a neat pile for later use as a beneficial mulch, or can be placed under trees and shrubs directly, if requested. If done properly, except for the missing trees, you won´t even know they were there.
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Production methods for growing trees

Plants are grown by various production methods, e.g. bare-root, balled and burlapped, fabric container and plastic container. Some large landscape trees are mechanically dug with a tree-spade and placed in wire baskets. Each of these growing and harvesting techniques is acceptable, but each requires a specific method of planting and managing.
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Winter damage to evergreens

In some colder zones, brown evergreens, needle tips and branch tips are seen in winter and early spring caused by drying winds, lack of snow cover, fluctuating temperatures, or low soil moisture. To reduce or prevent winter injury, water the root area of evergreens during dry fall and winter months. When snowmelt and rainfall are inadequate, apply water monthly during warm periods when the soil can absorb it. Apply mulch over the root zone to help conserve soil moisture and reduce loss from desiccation.
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Tips to consider before tree planting

When making decisions on planting techniques, you should consider how the plant was grown in the nursery, the plant´s drainage requirements, the soil type and drainage characteristics, and the availability of water for the planting. The plant should be specifically appropriate for the site or the site should be amended to specifically fit the plant. Choose a site that is large enough for the tree to grow to maturity
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Needle drop and brown foliage on evergreens

Contrary to popular belief, evergreen foliage does not remain attached indefinitely. In late summer and throughout the fall older, inner needles discolor and drop off after one to several years depending on the species. This is a natural condition. Arborvitaes shed branchlets, which usually turn brown instead of yellow as they age. Pines may show severe fall yellowing if you've had a particularly dry summer. White pines and other needle evergreens will have the oldest needles turn bright yellow before turning brown and falling. Although this can also be a normal occurrence, in dry seasons more needles than normal turn yellow and homeowners often get alarmed. Spruce and fir needles also yellow and drop with age; however, these trees retain their needles for several years, and loss is often gradual and can go unnoticed. As long as the new growth stays green, the plants will survive.
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Consider climate conditions before selecting a tree

When selecting a tree for your landscape be sure to take your area's climate conditions into consideration. Is the tree reliably cold hardy in your area? Can the tree tolerate the heat at the site (does the spot receive hot afternoon sun or is it surrounded by pavement that will reflect heat)? Will the tree tolerate existing sun or shade patterns? Will the tree get enough water after it is established? Is it in an area that gets sufficiently wet when it rains, or will irrigation be needed?
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Shade Trees

Place shade trees at least 20 feet from the southwest facade of the house. The shade will keep rooms cooler in the summer, while bare branches in winter allow sun to penetrate.
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Disadvantages of ball and burlapped trees

The main disadvantage of ball and burlapped plants is that a large portion of the roots may be severed at harvest time. The amount of roots harvested depends upon soil type, irrigation practices and root pruning during the production period. Ball and burlapped trees are subject to seasonal constraints when they are moved. The most favorable seasons are early spring, fall, or winter or early when transpiration demand is low and root generation potential is high, such as in fall, winter. With the much-reduced root system, water is a very critical element in the successful transplanting of B&B plants.

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A little tip, but an important one!

A small tip but an important tip!
Before you begin planting any trees, it is VERY IMPORTANT that you locate any underground utilities.

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Preplan your plant locations

Always consider the size of a shrub or tree before planting it. Often young plants are planted too close to a house, fence, or each other, overgrowing their allotted space and preventing proper development. If too close to a house they can darken rooms, obscure views, and even make it difficult to wash windows or paint trim.
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Considerations when planting large trees

Keep in mind when planting large trees like a sugar maple that they might outgrow the available space. These trees, providing they remain in good health, can eventually become spreading giants of 75 feet or more in height…with a spread of 25 feet or more on each side! Such a tree should be planted at least 30 feet from the nearest structure. If too close to a house, it can darken the interior, its leaves can clog gutters, and branches may damage upper windows or the roof.
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Introducing trees to your overall landscape design

During the first year of owning a new home, it is best to purchase the largest trees affordable and leave plantings for landscape beds and foundations later. Try not to “jump” into landscaping by first purchasing shrubs and flowers to fill the empty spaces surrounding the house and deferring the purchase of trees until the following years. After only a few seasons, the shrubs will mature and the trees that were planted much later will remain small giving an off-balanced look.
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Plant deciduous trees on south side

Large deciduous trees are excellent choices to plant on the south side of a house, in areas with hot summers and cold winters. These trees can cast shade on the wall and windows in summer which can reduce considerably the amount of airconditioning needed and thus conserve energy. When the leaves are gone, the sun will be able to shine through in the colder months and help keep heating costs down.

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Buying trees for a landscape

It pays in the long run to buy trees of the highest quality, even though they may be more expensive, from a local nursery with a good reputation. Buy only plantings that have healthy foliage, free of any obvious discoloration, damage, pests, or diseases. Trees 8-10 feet tall, either balled and burlapped or container grown, are usually the best buy. If they are sold in balled and burlapped, the burlap should be tightly filled with soil.
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Distances required between trees and paved areas

You should avoid planting trees in areas with less than 3 feet between paved areas. In areas with 3 to 4 feet between paved areas, plant trees that will grow to a mature height of less than 30 feet. In areas with 5 to 6 feet between paved areas, select trees that mature about 50 feet tall. Reserve trees that mature higher than 50 feet for areas with at least 8 feet between paved areas. This allows adequate space for the tree roots.
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